After Florence, we took a train to Rome and immediately picked up a rental car to drive south to the Amalfi Coast (don’t worry, we wrap around after the Amalfi to Rome). On our way to Amalfi (which is only a three hour drive), we stop in Naples because to visit the birthplace of one of our favorite foods: pizza.
LAW looked up the grittiest little pizza place in Naples for us to stop by for a pie: Antica Pizzeria E Friggitoria Di Mateo (Via dei Tribunali, 94). The place is consistently rated as one of the best, oldest, and most authentic pizzerias in town. The website is in Italian so I could only look at the pictures and it looks like Bill Clinton has been. If it’s good enough for Bill, it’s good enough for me. The place was literally a hole in the wall in a tiny alley.
LAW stayed in the car while I rushed to buy the freshest pies that were coming out of the oven. Two euros a pie. The pie was super simple with just tomato sauce and a piece of mozzarella (that fell off in this photo I think). The crust was very, very chewy, but not as puffy as my favorite from good ol’ NYC Luzzos. The rest of the pie was very thin, soft, and floppy. The tomato sauce tasted like fresh tomatoes mashed up into a pulp with some seasoning. Truly the origins of what pizza is today! Continue reading Italia Week: The Amalfi Coast! (and Naples)
218 Lafayette St
(between Kenmare St & Spring St)
New York, NY 10012
We had a big dinner here to celebrate J.P.’s birthday. M.C. and J.H. organized everything and J.H. even crafted a set family-style menu ($80 each) so that we could try a bit of everything. If it weren’t for this family-style meal, I probably would have had only two things: free bread and pasta. After having tried half of their menu now, I can say that the free bread and pasta were the highlights of my meal anyway and will probably be the things I have the next time I’m there. I’m thinking of starting a “free bread” ranking… to rank the restaurants with the best free bread. If a restaurant takes the time and energy to serve you warm, delicious, buttery rosemary rolls, or in the case, airy light focaccia drenched in olive oil, you start the meal with a smiling face and happy belly. Only good things can ensue. Thoughts?
We started with the Five-Choice Crostini (normally priced at $28), which consisted of towers of crostini, also drenched in olive oil, and five different types of dip. From left to right: 1) fresh pea, fava bean, mint & crispy speck; 2) smoked trout, olives, and sour cream; 3) roasted beets, shallots, and ricotta (which the waiter made sure to pronounce as rhee-KOE-DA); 4) buffalo ricotta and nepitella pesto; 5) veal crudo and tonnato. It was nice to see that the kitchen paid such close attention to every dip. It was clear that every single one was crafted with care and meant to shine on its own. Not one was just thrown in as a filler. My favorite was the smoked trout, olives, and sour cream. It was like a tuna salad on crack. The smoked trout was so smokey in flavor and went very well with the slight tartness of the olives. Sour cream added an extra creaminess that mayo alone couldn’t provide.
We also had the Polpettine Prosciutto and Mortadella (a large Italian sausage) Meatballs baked in tomato sauce (normally priced at $10). I did not know that the meatballs were made with prosciutto and mortadella during dinner as I never saw a menu and definitely wasn’t able to distinguish the unique meats through taste. I do remember the meatballs being extremely robust. Each ball was hearty as hell and very tasty, though it could have been a bit more tender. Parisi Bakery’s meatballs still win in my book. We also had the Insalata Mista (normally priced at $12), which was a mixed green salad with spring vegetables, salumi, and parmigiano. The spring vegetables were pickled, which I happen to like a lot. However, the dressing itself was a strong vinaigrette; once combined with the pickles, seemed a bit too sour overall.
Continue reading Osteria Morini, Michael White’s casual Italian joint in Soho.
253 10th Ave
(between 24th St & 25th St)
New York, NY 10001
I had this fish for the first time in Santorini. This was the most expensive type of fish on the island because it is apparently the most tender and moist. That of course also has to do with how good the chef is… Just had this fish last night at a small, hidden Italian place in Chelsea. Though not rated very well on Yelp (3.5 stars), I thought it was actually pretty good. The fish was very fresh and grilled with lemon and sea salt. Simplicity was what I was in the mood for and it was what I got. Continue reading Pepe Giallo: Branzino